Let’s have a look back at 2022, specifically Rolex. Let’s dive into what Rolex introduced, discontinued, and changed in its catalogue in 2022. It was good to look back, I’ve learned a lot about the 2022 releases from Rolex. A bit of a stale year for Rolex but definitely a few pieces which I did overlook before writing, pieces that I will now pay more attention to, and I think you should too.
GMT-Master II Sprite 126720VTNR
Rolex introduced a new watch in their GMT-Master II catalogue, not one that was expected from Rolex fans. The new 126720VTNR or nickname ‘Sprite’ features a Cerachrom (Rolex patented material used in their ceramic bezels) bezel insert in green and black ceramic with the date and crown on the left-hand side.
Watch fans look at Rolex as one of the most influential brands in modern watchmaking, whether you love it or hate it. A brand that strives for perfection, and opulence, one known to chase records. So, the new and exciting 2022 big release was a flipped GMT-Master II, leaving a stale taste for some fans. Lazy even.
But, when you dive into the specifics and think about what is required to make this watch, it is anything but lazy. To create a left-hand date wheel and crown you would have to flip the movement; this sounds simple enough but imagine this. In a production line of watches, you must alternate machinery, reverse compartments of the 3285 movement, and assemble. Better yet, imagine the watchmakers who are used to creating the 3285 movements the “right” way, having to make them the “left” way. One may theorise that this reference will be limited in comparison to other GMT-Master II models in Rolex’s catalogue, as it may be ‘disrupting’ the supply chain.
After having a conversation with a left-hand collector, that this was ground-breaking news to them, that a brand like Rolex is making a left-handed watch and a “Welcome to my world” on how weird it was to wear a left-hand watch. This changed my perspective of this watch, with an insight into what it’s like to be a left-handed watch enthusiast. This watch is definitely not for everyone, but for a few collectors this watch may mean so much more, and that is the true beauty of the world of watches.
Specifications
| Reference | 126720VTNR |
| Dial | Black Dial |
| Case | Stainless Case |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel with Polished Centre Links (PCL) |
| Bezel | Cerachrom (Ceramic) Bezel insert |
| Movement | 3285 Automatic Movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | $15,500 AUD |
Titanium Day-dates with Fluted Bezel 228236 – 40mm, 128236 – 36mm
The Rolex Day-date was the first of its kind introduced back in 1956 with its 36mm variant, a watch depicting the day and date, the day-date. Rolex has kept up with the slow creep-up of watch sizes, introducing the 41mm variant of the day-date in 2008, which was shortly replaced with the 40mm model in 2015.
The previous 950 Platinum Day-date came with a smooth Bezel, this new reference provides the Day-date with a welcomed Platinum fluted bezel, which wasn’t an easy feat; Rolex took many years of research to work with the notorious metal, and in typical Rolex fashion, the bezel was required to retain the perfect sparkle and shape for it to be finally released. With this marking another hurdle Rolex has unloaded, a Fluted platinum bezel.
With all Rolex Platinum watches, the exclusive vibrant shiny ice blue dial which is a match made in heaven with the platinum (The Ice-blue dial is used exclusively on Rolex Platinum watches). You can still get pretty much any other dial that the day-date offers with platinum, but with the exclusive choice of the ice blue dial, would you?
Rolex also released a new dial for the 36mm platinum day-date, which featured a Diamond-paved dial with 10 baguette-cut, rainbow-coloured sapphires for its indices (Reference 128396-003).
Specifications
| Reference | 228236 – 40mm, 128236 – 36mm |
| Dial | Ice-blue Dial (Also available in variety of other dials) |
| Case | 950 Platinum |
| Bracelet | 950 Platinum |
| Bezel | Fluted Platinum Bezel |
| Movement | 3255 Automatic Movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | On request |
Yacht-Masters 226659 White gold and 226658 Yellow Gold 42mm
The Yacht-Master collection features a bidirectional rotatable 60-minute bezel which was first seen by Rolex on a Datejust Turn-O-Graph, the predecessor for all rotating bezels for Rolex. offered on an Oyster Flex, which provides a sporty touch.
The 42mm Yacht-master introduced in yellow and white gold, white offered also, in a new ‘Falcon’s Eye Dial’. Both accompanied by a matt black Cerachrom (Ceramic) insert. The yellow gold provided updated gold-plated indices and hands.
You may ask, what is a Falcon’s Eye Dial?
A Falcon’s eye is a variety of Tiger’s
Eye; specifically, a blue variety of Tiger’s Eye. From what I’ve seen
(Instagram posts) of those who’ve seen it, only complements ensued. This is a
dial and a release before writing this article did not pay attention to this
year. But now that I have, am very fascinated.
This dial may not just be an “accidental use of sandpaper” (Witnessed comments), but a true sleeper from Rolex’s catalogue this year. The photos provided by Rolex cease to show the true beauty of the Blue Tiger Eye Dial or rather, the Falcon’s Eye Dial.
Specifications
| Reference | 226659 (White Gold 42mm), 226658 (Yellow Gold 42mm) |
| Dial | Black or Falcons Eye Dial |
| Case | White Gold or Yellow Gold |
| Bracelet | White Gold or Yellow Gold |
| Bezel | Matt black Cerachrom insert (Ceramic) |
| Movement | 3235 Automatic Movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | White Gold 42mm – $41,7500 AUD, $45,450 (With the Falcons Eye Dial). Yellow Gold 42mm – $39,950. |
Yacht Master - 126679SABR 40mm White Gold with Sapphires & Diamonds
At the time of writing, this watch is not shown on the Rolex official website. Perhaps an ‘off-catalogue’ piece that was shown at watches and wonders 2022 and quickly tucked away?
This Yacht-Master has a case of 18ct white gold, with lugs and crown guards set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.89ct). Now the bezel, bedazzled in 8 trapeze-cut diamonds (approx. 0.92ct), 32 trapeze-cut sapphires (8 pink, 8 light blue, 8 purple, and 8 dark blue, approx. 4.27ct in total, approx. 0.13ct each) and one triangular diamond (0.15ct) at 12 o’clock.
Amazingly this bezel can still rotate bi-directionally just like a normal Yacht-master, obviously now with the lost practicability of calculating distance and/or timing… or is it. Although not impossible, I guess you could use the triangular diamond as an indicator and work from there.
Specifications
| Reference | 126679SABR |
| Dial | Black |
| Case | White Gold |
| Bracelet | White Gold |
| Bezel | Diamonds and Sapphires |
| Movement | 3235 Automatic Movement, 70 hours power reserver |
| Price | On Request |
Datejust 31 Diamonds Dials
A new style of the Datejust 31 was introduced, 3 new floral-motif dials; 24 finely finished flowers with distinctive different finishing – Sunray, matt and grained, each accompanied by centre diamond. If you have the chance, I recommend viewing the finishing of the flowers using a loupe, viewing important finishing techniques (sunray, matt, and grained) can be a lesson learned on the various machinery, and finishing techniques used in watchmaking.
This new dial is offered in 3 different dials:
- Azzurro blue – Offered in White Rolesor (a combination of white gold and oyster steel). The bezel is made of white gold. The winding crown, middle case, bracelet, and clasp are in Oystersteel.
- Olive green – Offered in full yellow gold on a president bracelet (reserved exclusively still to only day-dates and precious metal datejusts). With a bezel insert which is set with 46 brilliant-cut (approx. 1.02 ct)
- Silver – Offered in a new Everose Rolesor; a combination of everrose gold and Oystersteel. The bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in everrose gold, while the outerlinks are in Oystersteel (Two-tone). With a bezel insert which is set with 46 brilliant-cut (approx. 1.02 ct)
Specifications
| Reference | 278274 (Azzurro Blue) |
| Dial | Azzuro Blue |
| Case | White Rolesor |
| Bracelet | Stainless steel |
| Bezel | White Gold, Fluted |
| Movement | 2236 Automatic Movement, 55 hours power reserve |
| Price | $14,450 AUD |
| Reference | 278288RBR (Olive Green) |
| Dial | Olive Green |
| Case | Yellow Gold |
| Bracelet | Yellow Gold |
| Bezel | 18ct yellow gold, set with 46 diamonds (approx. 1.02ct) |
| Movement | 2236 Automatic Movement, 55 hours power reserve |
| Price | $61,850 AUD |
| Reference | 27381RBR (Silver) |
| Dial | Silver |
| Case | Everose Rolesor |
| Bracelet | Everrose Rolesor |
| Bezel | Everrose gold, set with 46 diamonds (aprpox. 1.02ct) |
| Movement | 2236 Automatic Movement, 55 hours power reserve |
| Price | $28,600 AUD |
The Deepsea Challenge
Ah, the perfect everyday watch. A modest 50mm Oyster Perpetual Deepsea capable to withstand a depth of 13,750 metres (45,112 feet) and 17 tonnes of pressure, talk about a conversation starter!
In all seriousness, this is an important watch to commemorate the scientific exploration of the Mariana trench; the deepest oceanic trench on Earth estimated to be roughly 11km deep (or for you American readers, 7 miles). The first two crewed descents down the Mariana Trench were accompanied by the crown, Rolex.
- The first descent – The first crewed descent, aboard the Bathyscaphe Trieste, reached the ocean floor with the great Jacques Piccard and Captain Don Walsh reaching a record depth of 10,911 metres (estimated) on 23rd January 1960. Attached to the outside of the Bathyscaphe Trieste, was the one and only Deepsea Special. The watch worn by Jacques Piccard during this descent was donated to Phillips in 2021. The watch which was believed to be the one strapped outside the Bathyscaphe Trieste can be viewed at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C.
- The second descent – A Canadian film director took to the helm next, James Cameron. As you would probably know from directing Avatar, The Terminator, Titanic, and the original alien movie, what a legend!
James descended on 26th March 2012 on the Deepsea Challenger, solo manning the DSV (Deep-submergence Vehicle) Deepsea Challenger. Spending 2 hours and 34 minutes on the deepest part of our oceans, witnessing shrimplike bottom-feeders. Accompanying him an Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge (2012) on his wrist and, on the arm of the DSV Deepsea Challenger. Yes, worn by him and the DSV’s robotic arm! James also paid homage to the first descent by bringing a Deepsea Special (1960) onboard his journey.
While brands are competing for the thinnest watch (A conversation for another day), Rolex has set records for the deepest watch since the 1960s. Now with competition from Omega, also completing a crew-manned descent into the Marina trench by Victor Vescovo in 2019, accompanied by three experimental watches, aptly named the “Ultra Deep”. The Deepsea Challenge (2022) is not just a watch, it’s a chance to own a piece of history. For a watch that can reach a depth of 13,750 meters (45,112 feet) and withstand 17 tonnes of pressure. All this for $36,750, just seems like a steal.
Before you go and say the dial says 11,000m (36,090 ft), why have you written 13,750 metres?
Standards for diver watches; an additional safety requirement margin of 25 per cent is required, meaning it is tested to withstand 13,750 metres (45,112 feet). 11,000 metres + 25 per cent (Quick math = 13,750).
Specifications
| Reference | 126067 |
| Dial | Intense Black |
| Case | Oyster, RLX Titanium |
| Bracelet | RLX Titatniun |
| Bezel | Cerachrom Insert (Ceramic) |
| Movement | 3230 Automatic movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | $36,750 AUD |
A Green Year
Green dials, green dials, read all about it. Rolex introduces new green dials for its Datejusts and Day-date. Rolex brings in a new sunburst green dial for its Datejusts and a bright smooth green dial for its yellow gold day-date. Following the market trends of proving, green is the new blue.
We have seen other brands introduce their trademark watches with green dials; The IWC Pilots Watch in a rich vibrant green, Rolex with their palm motifs, Breitling Premier B09s with their pistachio green watches, and even Patek Phillipe offered their Nautilus in a green dial for its final year run for its 5711 references, just to name a few, and trust me there’s a lot, and for good reason; Green is the new blue.
Specifications
| Reference | Variety of Datejust 31, 36, 41s |
| Dial | Sunburst Green Dial |
| Case | Oystersteel |
| Bracelet | Oystersteel Bracelet or Jubilee Bracelet |
| Bezel | White Gold |
| Movement | 2236 Automatic Movement, 55 hours power reserve |
| Price | Price varies on the bezel, bracelet, size choice. Ranging from the cheapest variation; the 31mm smooth bezel on oyster bracelet will set you back $9600 AUD to the most expensive 41mm fluted bezel on Jubilee costing $14,300 AUD |
Changes
Air king changes (116900 to 126900)
The new Air King with crown guards, to match closer to its professional watches in Rolex’s catalogue. The proportions of the bracelet have been changed with broader centre links, it is also now equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp (Found also, in professional watches from Rolex).
With optimised Chromalight on its hands and triangular hour marker, and numerals (3, 6, and 9) makes it more legible in the dark, especially in comparison to its predecessor which the numerals were constructed of 18ct white gold rather than the new Chromalight numerals.
An updated movement, the new Air king features a 3230, whereas its previous model rocked the 3131. Upgrading its power reserve from 48 hours to 70, utilising a paraflex anti-shock system (Rolex manufactured), which the previous 3131 used a Kif Anti-Shock System.
Specifications
| Reference | 126900 |
| Dial | Black Lacquer |
| Case | Oystersteel |
| Bracelet | Oystersteel |
| Bezel | Oystersteel, Smooth |
| Movement | 3230 Automatic movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | $10,500 AUD |
Changes
Rolex Deepsea (126660 to 136660)
Rolex updates the Deepsea and changes the reference, 126660 to 136660 with very modest changes to the watch. The new Rolex Deepsea 136660, has a very tiny increase in size for its date window, a narrow bezel design, and a removal of its diver extension for a Fliplock extension link. The watch still features the same calibre 3235 as its predecessor.
Specifications
| Reference | 136660 |
| Dial | Black & D-Blue |
| Case | Oystersteel |
| Bracelet | Oystersteel |
| Bezel | 60-minute graduate monobloc Cerachrom Insert in black ceramic |
| Movement | 3235 Automatic movement, 70 hours power reserve |
| Price | $20,000 AUD Black Dial, $20,440 D-Blue Dial |
Discontinuations
Colourful Oyster Perpetual Dials
After a stardom rollout, the tiffany dial oyster perpetual reaches its end for it’s 41mm tiffany dial (reference 124300) which was discontinued in 2022. However, still available in 36mm and 31mm.
Let’s look at the coloured dials that are still available; out of the Yellow, Green, Tiffany blue, Coral & Pink announced in late 2020.
Yellow – Fully discontinued
Green – Available in all sizes; 31mm, 36mm and 41mm
Tiffany Blue – Available in 31mm, 36mm
Coral – Fully discontinued
Pink – Available still in 36mm
Rolex Daydate platinum - Smooth domed bezel (228206)
Rolex releases the fluted bezel version (228236), the smooth bezel goes out (229206).
Rolex Yachtmaster II (116689 - white gold with platinum dial)
Rolex discontinues the Yachtmaster II in white gold with a platinum bezel. The 44mm Yachtmaster II is still available in Oystersteel, Everrose gold two-tone, or full yellow gold.
Cellini Ranges (Time-only and two time-and-date models)
Rolex stops most of its Cellini Range, all simple time only Cellini’s have been discontinued. Leaving the lone Cellini with monophase still on its catalogue, available in Polished Everrose gold. Available for $37,750 AUD.
